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Out of the Arctic, day 21

Thursday, August 28th, 2008
We pulled out of the campground (Milepost 107, Bear Country, just above Finger Mountain.).
We stopped for a short hike at an area that showed tors (leftovers from glacier erosion) and continued south. The colors had started to change. Not many reds, only a few low bushes near creeks had red but lots of yellow from the Aspen trees. The yellow against the deep green of the Spruce is quite beautiful.
There were many more trucks going out but the trip was uneventful. We did stop at the Arctic Trading Post. Full of smoke from the fire, a bare wooden floor and a second story only 5-1/2 feet tall, this was another example of do the best you can in the Arctic
We passed through Fairbanks and stopped at North Pole Alaska. Lots of shopping done there and photos with Santa and Mrs. Claus. It is Christmas all year here.
Sadly the reindeer they keep caged should be freed. Not only are they deprived of their natural instincts, and the correct diet, they drink water they have just peed in - Santa needs to pay more attention to his reindeer.
We camped at a nicely keep campground, The Lazy Moose, with a very pretty view of the river.
   
 

Heading south, day 20

Sunday, August 24th, 2008
The Artic Interagency Visitor Center. We left the campgound and went down the hill to the Arctic Circle sign (1/4 mile). No one was there so we got some good photos. Finally another group came in and we took their photo while they took a few for us.
Views coming out. The colors have started to change. We headed out to Coldfoot (about 50 miles) to get fuel. The Arctic Interagency Vistor Center there is very good. You could easily spend several hours here and learn much about solstice and the area.
Views coming out. Coldfoot does have ultra low sulphur diesel but a big sign on the highway leading north, warned there may not be any ultra low-suphur diesel fuel ahead.We had a beer in the most Northern bar in America and contemplated going futher north to the continental divide or a couple of campgrounds further where someone had seen a herd of caribou.
Our camp on the way out from the Arctic Circle. We reluctently decided to turn south, in effect now heading for home.We drove south several miles past the Arctic Circle and camped off the road at a spot with a great view.
The colors had started to change. Not many reds, only a few low bushes near creeks but lots of orange from the Aspen trees. The orange against the deep green of the Spruce is quite beautiful.

The Arctic Circle, day 19

Friday, August 22nd, 2008
Getting close! Today we heading north to the Arctic Circle. It is about 200 miles of paved and gravel road. Most of the gravel portion is smoother than California’s 580 and 680 freeways. One of the gravel portions has the “Roller Coaster” - a hill with a long steep down grade followed by a long steep upgrade. We hit the bottom at 65mph with Debbie screaming all the way.
The bridge across the Yukon River. There were several 8 and 9% grades but the first 18 miles is the roughest. After that, a piece of cake. We crossed the Yukon River on the way and basically followed the pipeline. It was a Sunday so there was very little truck traffic. Plan your trip to include a Sunday either going in or coming out.
The Yukon River. We reached the Arctic Circle around 1 or 2pm. It was actually crowded with folks taking pictures. We took a couple and planned to come back in the morning for more. We camped at the BLM Arctic Circle Campground.
Veggies at the HotSpot Cafe. It is a undeveloped campground with an out-house (normal plumbing in the Alaska bush - we will never take our bathroom at home for granted again!). We were the only ones there except for a few million gnats that left around 8pm. We had a nice fire and roasted a few marshmellows. Wow, here we are! A goal for many years.
Pump Station 5 which really does not pump but slows the oil coming off the grade. The light grew dim around 11pm. A long sunset lasted well after midnight. A full moon also was up and we had thin cloud cover so there was no chance of seeing the Northern Lights or stars. Both the sun and the moon moved around the horizon never directly overhead.
Pump Station 5 which really does not pump but slows the oil coming off the grade. Note: There is no diesel fuel between Fairbanks and Coldfoot. We expected it at the Yukon River or the Hot Spot Cafe so plan accordingly.
Success! The pipeline, a remarkable piece of engineering. UCLA at the Arctic Circle.
The first Sportsmobile Sprinter to the Arctic Circle! Debbie on top of the world. The weight of the world on her shoulders.
Microsoft Services at the Arctic Circle. Keith building a fire. Debbie waiting for Keith to build a fire.
The road to the campground. Video: What is the Arctic Circle

Fairbanks, day 18

Tuesday, August 19th, 2008
The Unknown First Family. Fairly early we heading downtown to the Visitor’s Center in Fairbanks. Parking spaces would be hard to find for a large camper but our 19′ fit right into a regular street parking spot.We visited the The Unknown First Family monument at the Visitor’s Center. We looked at the walking tour map which was mostly commercial sites and decided to head to Pioneer Park.
One of the little converted cabins. We even found some Greek food! Pioneer Park is a great place with lots of shops occupying authentic old cabins that have been relocated here. There is a steamship with very interesting diorama’s (miniature models of real locations in the history of the area).
Brrrrrrrrrr! We saw display of the Northern Lights in a portable planetarium. The presentation was conducted by professors from University of Alaska and was very educational, almost like the real thing except for the sound of babies, who were afraid of the dark, wailing (come on, kids can not go EVERYWHERE).
It's colder than minus 40! Next we froze in a -40° exposure to a Fairbanks winter. Boiling water froze in mid air when thrown from a glass. I hammered a nail with a frozen banana. Debbie’s ears did not warm up for hours afterwards! It was a great exhibit.
A banana makes a great hammer! We also leaned much more about Judge Wickersham, who shaped the history of this area in many ways.
University of Alaska LARS. Next we went to the U of A Large Animal Research Station. We saw musk oxen and caribou. The University is studying the nutrition and behavior of these animals. How do I get that job?
Part of the long road. Lastly we visited Mary Shields, the first woman to finish the Iditarod, at her cabin. What a great time she gave us! We got to meet all the sled dogs, see Mary’s great garden, beautiful home-built cabin and hear all about sled dog racing and living in the bush. While having coffee and brownies we listened about her mushing adventure to Siberia and the Yukon Quest. If you go to Fairbanks make sure to visit Mary.
Ready for the Iditarod. Giving a sled dog attention. Musk Ox skulls. The one of the left is a female and the larger one, a male.
Trying out the Musher's gear. XXX the caribou. Musk Ox pose for mug shot.
A bug climbing the fence for the Musk Ox. We think he was a Musk Ox bug. He fell several times but kept trying to get to the top of the fence. It finely fell into a small spruce and decided to rest for a while.
Musk Ox film here
Caribou film here

North to Fairbanks, day 17

Tuesday, August 19th, 2008
Fast food. We pulled out of Tec on day 17 heading north to Fairbanks. On the way out saw Ptarmigan and some Ravens. The Ravens were dining on a freshly road killed ground squirrel which apparently is an important part of the park ecosystem (also called fast food).
Ptarmigans (the Alaska State Bird). We learned mosquito’s were also important. When they draw blood (human or animal) the blood helps nurture more mosquito’s that pollinate the berries that feed the bears. I can honestly say that after our stay, there will be an abundant berry harvest next year!
Even the clouds are extraordinary. The trip north to Fairbanks was filled with vistas including more and different views of the Alaska Range. It is impossible to photograph the expanses of wilderness we saw in manner that would display correctly on the web.You need to visit Alaska!
Our camp in Fairbanks. We pulled into Fairbanks and checked into the River View campground. We had a great site with full hookups so we could dump the tanks, fill with water and make sure we were all charged up when we headed for the Arctic Circle. We had dinner at the River’s Edge Restaurant. The table was outside overlooking the Chena River. The food was good but a new waiter and a new bartender made the experience less than perfect.
View along the road. View along the road. A female moose.